Centuries ago, when you are brought here, all you would or could do, is look back with a central sadness word can only dare to describe. You look back to your home with this sadness through the Door of No Return and you are shipped off through this channel of the sea. The view is alluring but in this destination that is easy on the eye, a memory of a bad trade is stirred up.

OUIDAH — The tales of slavery vary to its destinations where the inhumane life of unacceptable subjections were carried out on people who were beaten and bent beyond backwards until they were broken to slaving away their lives. This remorseless enslavement brewed up storms of hate and lit the fires of anger in the hearts of these people that burned deep into their souls till death. Generations upon generations went away with this monstrous act and some survived. The wind of hate is still blowing and the smoke from these fires of anger is still lingering—it is what makes these slaving ports that are ashes of slavery a destination to be explored.

This drudgery that ravaged Africa brought about these slaving ports where the tales of this central sadness all started and they are now a tourism destination. Just before the COVID-19 pandemic put adventures in the tourism terrain on hold, I visited LA Porte du Non retour (The Door of No return) in the historic city of Ouidah which is on the coast of the Republic of Bénin. As soon as we drove into the city (that is frequently appraised as the spiritual capital of the Voodoo religion), in my friend Armel Agbohouto's car who is Beninoise, the feeling was like we just journeyed into the past. The air was welcoming with the ambiance of the past, mud houses are still very much present and the few modern buildings are spattered with red sand, colouring the iota of civilization with one of the virtues of the past that is still lingering around. The trees which are valid witnesses to the historical tales here, move evidently in a way that seem like they are appreciating one's visit to the city and evidencing the environment as tourism friendly with their own majesty.

On the road—La Route des Esclave, which means the road of the slaves that leads to the historical destination, statues relating to times gone by are on both sides of the road. They hint to relevant moments of happenings to tourists. Also on this road, is a place called Djegbadgi meaning the place of salt. It is from the sand here the people get their local salt and have it transported to other parts of the country. After some minutes' drive from Djegbadji, we got to my place of interest, the place that chiefly makes Ouidah a historical city—"LA Porte du Non Retour".

Unlike other attractions namely: the Python Temple, which is opposite the Basilique de l'Immaculée Conception (Basilica of the Immaculate Conception), and Ouidah Museum of History that are also here, the Door of No Return is main attraction for most tourists, who visit the city because of its potential to connect both the posterity of these souls and tourism enthusiasts to this central sadness of the past. At the LA Porte du Non Retour, the wind greets you with its intensity, it takes you into its fold while you are there, whether you want to or not. The redness of the sand colours the trees, who despite the intense wind blowing, stood immoveable, owing to the sadness they have witnessed. Paving slabs lie on the ground with short flowery trees in front to fence the environs of the historic site. A white walk-way from the entrance is created on the beach as a path that leads to the memorial arc with depictions of slavery on its head and beside the pillars, on the inland-facing side, the main mural shows enslaved men walking toward the sea, with a ship waiting for them in the distance. The mural depicts them walking away from their homeland on the sea-facing side. Beyond this door, is the sea where many have been shipped off to various destinations. On the shores of this sea, that its beauty is the kind you live in your heart as a pocket of memory, sadness is deeply felt through the wind of hate intensely blowing around. The noise of the wind opens your mind of exploration so you can see the smoke of this anger that is lingering on. To some, the connection is in itself a wonder to explore and to others, it is a sadness that causes rivers of tears. Like it did for the American comedian and daytime talk show host, Steve Harvey during his visit to the Elmina Castle in Cape Coast, the capital of Central region, Ghana.

These feelings of sadness where the admiration of the past and connection to ancestors can be explored, is a wondrous moment from the ashes of slavery. It is a given that these slave ports are fast becoming a tourism offering and truth is, it is a fascinating lure.

LA PORTE du NON Retour is an hour drive from the Cardinal Bernadin Gantin de Cotonou International Airport.

WHEN TO GO

Dry Season. Early hours of the day or late afternoon by 4pm is the best time to visit.

WHERE TO STAY

Golden Tulip Hotel Le Diplomate
90 rue 12.017 Boulevard de la Marina, 01 BP 83790, Cotonou, Benin.
+229 213 00200.